Saturday, March 22, 2008

Quila Quina

One of the last days that I was in Argentina, I spent an afternoon at a beach and park called Quila Quina. It was only a 20 minute boat ride from the pier in San Martin, across Lago Lacar.

When I got off the boat, I was walking around the little beach area to get my bearings and met 2 other kids my age. They were looking for the waterfall and asked me where it was (like I know anything)...so I decided to venture off with them to find it too. They were very nice and realy fun. Pablo was from Buenos Aires and Denise was from Germany. They both spoke perfect English and regularly practiced all of the swear words.

So we went on the walk through the Mapuche village to go on the waterfall hike to see the cascada. It was a short 20 minute walk and very serene. Because it is summer and all water levels are very low, the waterfall was not very impressive. But the big boulders and fallen trees that were stuck in the river were really fun to climb on, so we entertained ourselves for a while by exploring.


Going across Lago Lacar


out the window of the boat


Coming into the dock at Quila Quina


the waterfall (or lack thereof)




Denise, Pablo and me

the beach at Quila Quina

Trail ride, minus the trails

Riding with Ulloa

I had a very special opportunity to go on a ride with a man named Ulloa, a well-known and well-liked gaucho from just outside San Martin. He is a good friend of Maria Luisa and Michael’s. I first met him at the Rural back in January – he was showing his stallion and won many awards.

So when he invited me to go ride with him on one of his horses, I jumped at the chance.

I met him early one morning at the stable were he trains horses and he had a mare ready for me. She was a beautiful 12 year old llegua tostada (chestnut mare), with a long roman nose and was thicker and wider than my Warmbloods at home! Standing a little over 15 hands, she was the biggest animal that I had seen in Argentina. Ulloa said she was for sale and if I lived down there, I would’ve bought her.

I wore all the gaucha uniform that I had – bombachas (pants), boina (barret-type hat) with my cowboy boots. I’m sure he must have rolled his eyes at this crazy gringa who showed up to go ride with him wondering what he had gotten himself into.

We headed into the mountains on the northwest side of San Martin. Even though Ulloa doesn’t speak English, we were able to communicate just fine, especially about horses.

He is quite a character, and after slyly watching me ride on the first easy trails, all of a sudden we dove off the trail and into the lush, thick shrubs and trees. I guess he thought I passed the “can this girl ride and how much guts does she have” test. And then before I knew it we were following jabilĂ­ tracks. Jabilis are the wild hogs that are in Argentina. They are even uglier than the wild hogs that we have at home in California and are prehistoric looking. He hunts them with his dogs. They track the hogs and then when the dogs have it pinned, the gaucho goes in and stabs it in the gut with his knife. The sport probably dates back to prehistoric times, I guess. I was glad that we didn’t find any of the live animals that morning, only saw lots of tracks. I had visions going through my mind about what would happen if the dogs did find some big, old, hairy thing with 6 inch tusks…what happens after they kill it, I had a feeling that he would want to put it in my lap and I would have to ride back with it…I guess my mind was jumping ahead a bit!

It was a blast going through the lush vegetation, ducking and diving out of the way of branches and thorny bushes. We finally made our way to the top of the ridge, where we could see a magnificent view of San Martin and of the next valley over.

It was a wonderful experience to ride with Ulloa on one of his very nice horses. We shared many laughs at the horses and at the dogs. I had a great time!


Thanks to Michael's photography skills:

This is me on the mare:



This is Ulloa:

Wednesday, March 5, 2008

Family Pictures

Just some fun pics of the family...


This is Maeva in her uniform for her first day of Pre-School. She loves it and everyday can't wait to go back!

Maeva and Maria Luisa





Before going to dinner, Maeva and Michael, having a great time









Maria Luisa and Maeva, I bet I know where Maeva got those beautiful big eyes!

Maria Luisa and Micheal






Me with the little one











Dave and I shared the best dessert ever - fresh blueberries, boysenberries and raspberries and vanilla ice cream! It was Dave's last night in Argentina.


Tuesday, March 4, 2008

I caught one!

...a fish, that is!

A friend of our family, Dave Brandt, has been down here in Argentina for 2 months, since the beginning of January. He lives and has cattle in Montana and has been coming down for the past 6 years to fly fish. He invited me to join him and some friends on a float and I jumped at the chance!

Our river to float for the day was the Rio Chimehuin, just a 30 minute drive north of San Martin to Junin de los Andes. We got an early start, inflated the boats, tied our flies and were off!



In true Argentine style, attach a trailer to any vehicle, these are the serious fishermen and fisherwomen getting the boats ready. To list everyone: Dave in the blue, Jack in the straw hat and his wife Merle on the other side of the car, Harry Wilson at the back of the car. All from Montaaana.

I had never fly fished before, so this is me practicing my casts. Jack, a professional fishing guide in Montana, was very patient with me all day and generously gave me lots of fishing pointers. Boy, there sure is some strange fly fishing terminology! Mom and Dad, I hope I made you proud, I learned how to be a good hooker and an even better stripper!

I especially learned that it is a 'rod' not a 'pole' and was corrected all day long...

This is Jack, pushing our boat out into the water. I felt like the princess in the front seat of the boat!


One of the bends in the river with the beautiful Patagonian landscape and sky.


Jack's collection of flies. This is serious business!



Me being not-so-serious, taking a break from fishing. Waiting for Dave and Harry to come in their boat with the food!

Dave and Harry coming down the river. If you look closely, you can see the loop in Dave's line (I think that's what it's called...)

Dave wading, with the biggest smile in Argentina. He sure is a neat man! It was wonderful to be able to spend time with him, he is so full of life. And he has cool glasses!

Dave and me, taking a break from fishing.


A really fun river! I had a blast!

AND I EVEN CAUGHT A FISH!!! I hooked several and brought them to the boat, but they got away (I think I'm fitting right in, I'm even getting the typical fisherman's story right. It was THIS big!) The fishing is all catch and release and you have to take the side barbs off the fly so the fish get away easily. Or at least that's the excuse I'm using! But anyway, this is the one that I finally got in the boat, it was a whopping 15 inch rainbow! Haha. It made my day!





The last stretch of the river, it was 6:00 in the afternoon and starting to rain. It was a beautiful end to a fabulous day.


I am SO glad that I got to fish one of the best Rainbow Trout rivers in the world (that's what they say). It was such an awesome experience and a fun group of people to fish with.

AND, Dad told me that I couldn't come home until I had a picture of me with a fish (preferably one that I caught) and picture with Dave. DAD - I got both, and I even caught the fish! Now I can come home! WOOHOO!